Happy DIY Saturday! Your kitchen is one of the most important rooms when it comes to excellent lighting. While it provides overall lighting for cooking and eating it also can provide task lighting to ensure you are safe while preparing, cooking, and serving food as well. Under cabinet lighting is an excellent way to ensure you have just the right amount light exactly where you need it.

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Do you know how to choose under counter lighting? Today, watch a video on choosing lighting for your kitchen. Then my Guest Blogger gives tips for choosing the right light and the considerations to think of when buying lighting.

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Video – How to Install Under Cabinet Lighting

Guest Blogger – How to Choose Under Cabinet Lighting

Nowadays you will be able to peruse numerous sources of information that enable you to reach the decision concerning your future lighting fixtures for underneath the cabinets faster. However, it is fair to point out that the vast majority are designed to promote one type of products or another.

As potential customer, your goal is simple: purchase the lighting system that is right for you. Right, sounds simple enough, but where should you start? Well, the following article aims to take you on a tour of tips you need to consider in your quest for the perfect lighting fixture. Hopefully, by the time you finish reading, you will be armed with the knowledge required to dissociate between what sounds nice in theory and what you really need.

Take the color temperature of the room into account

First, let me explain what the color temperature actually is. Light emanated from the fixtures can be either yellow-tinted (in the 2700K and 3200K range), neutral white tinted (3200K and 3500K range) or cool white tinted (4000K to 5000K range). Now, in accordance to the dominant tones in the room, the color temperature of the lighting system placed underneath the cabinet can either enhance or downgrade their appearance.

My recommendations on this matter are as following:

• Rooms that are generously decorated using warm colors, have numerous furniture pieces made from hardwood or include appliances (E.G. backsplashes) crafted from copper benefit most from lighting sources with warm temperatures (up to 3500K)
•  Alternatively, for a room that contains decorative shelves or tiles made from transparent or see-through painted glass, cooler metal appliances (chrome, stainless steel, etc.) and similar looking tones it is advisable to opt for lighting fixtures in the 3500k-5000k range

To put it simply, you need to create a match between the light source and the overall color context in order to achieve the optimal lighting results. Let’s move on.

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Mitigating the effect of furniture with glossy surfaces

There is no denying that a shiny, gloss coating appears exquisite and confers the room a certain glamour. However, the main issue with these surfaces comprises of the mirroring effects, because they have an innate tendency of reflecting light. The problem becomes even more visible in the case of lighting sources placed underneath countertops.

Fortunately, the solution is rather simple. Instead of selecting a fixture equipped exclusively with standard light bulbs, you can opt for a model that also includes lenses. Because the lens enables you to direct and/or concentrate the light, the reflection effect is drastically reduced.

How to deal with those pesky dark surfaces

Unlike their glossy counterparts, the dark surfaces will not reflect the light, but rather tend to absorb a high amount of it. In turn, this will dramatically reduce the effectiveness of the lighting fixture. To deal with this problem, my advice is to purchase a lighting source with a higher output. Even though the utility bill may go up slightly, you will have enough light to perform your daily routine without constantly bumping into furniture like a blind bat.

How to attain the optimal even light distribution

Without an even light distribution, certain parts of the room will seem to be in perpetual darkness while others will constantly emanate a blinding light. If you want a consistent light distribution for the fixtures you install underneath the cabinet, then you will need to place them towards its frontal side and direct their focus towards the backside. Not only will this approach work in creating light uniformity, but potential glare effects resulted from looking directly into the lighting source are also eliminated successfully.

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Plan for heat dissipation

While LED lights do not emanate the same amount of heat as the standard light bulbs, they do require some space around for this process. Otherwise, they are prone to premature fails and quality LEDs are not cheap to replace. In order to account for the fixture’s heat dissipation necessities, all you need to do is leave a bit of open space between it and the cabinet. The required space is just enough to permit a bit of airflow and ensure the LED does not overheat.

My name is Chad and my fantastic experience with different T5 lighting and other similar fixtures compels me to provide advice on the selection and maintenance process for these lighting wonders!

For more DIY Saturday’s on Stagetecture, click here.

For more DIY videos, check out Stagetecture’s You Tube Channel

I always get excited to stumble across home finishes that use great technology to make your home unique! Remember those cards they use to have that would help you determine if you were stressed or not, and it was a black square that you’d place your thumb on? Depending on your stress level (more like body temperature) you could see how stressed you were by the color change? Well I found ceramic and glass tile that does the same thing with temperature changes!

Movingcolor.net has created 4 different styles of  temperature sensitive glass which in turn changes color. They also carry a ceramic tile that is touch sensitive.

Northern Nights:

Inspired by the stunning Northern Lights of Alaska, this line features 4 x 4 glass tiles that appear black at room temperature and move through the color spectrum when temperature (warm water, radiant heat, etc) is applied. The moving color is dynamic to the temperature of the heating agent.

Tye-Dye Tile:

The Tye-dye glass is directly inspired by the psychedelic, unpredictable metamorphosis through color infusion. Tye-dye tiles are unique due to its volatile nature, perfect for breathtaking presentation. The distinctive appearance of the Tye-dye will capture the attention of even the most abstract tastes and innovative design concepts. The glass tiles are available in 4″ x 4″ standard size however custom sizes are available for order.

WaterColor Tile:

Watercolors is a unique Moving Color® line closely resembling the luminous quality of water color. The tiles shift from a base coat of color to colorless when exposed to heat. These 4 x 4 glass tiles are currently available in 8 colors. The color change is “reversible,” i.e., the original color will be restored upon cooling.

Liquid Tile:

Liquid Tile is the latest addition to the Moving Color® product lines. Inspired by the beauty of water, Liquid has a very organic feel. Offered in ten base colors, these tiles have a wide range of color changing ability. Liquid is currently produced on 4” x 4” glass tiles. However, alternate sizes are available as well as custom pieces upon request such as water features and architectural glass.

Touch Sensitive Ceramic Tile:

Our Touch Sensitive ceramic tiles are fully interactive. Recently featured on Extreme Makeover Home Edition, our touch sensitive designs can be used on walls, ceilings or furniture.

For more home decor ideas on Stagetecture, click here.

Covering your windows in your home can be an expensive undertaking. From choosing the window covering, to measuring, to buying and installing, the price and time can be costly.  Don’t forget you have to multiply this by how many windows you have throughout your home!  Today on DIY Saturday at Stagetecture, I will show you the first step in the buying window blind process – measuring. Check out these tips and then a You Tube video on how to measure for your blinds.

Here are steps for measuring for blinds from The Blind Store.

• Use a steel tape for accuracy.
• Measure width and write it down, then length and write it down.
• When measuring and ordering width always comes first.
• Measure to the nearest 1/8 inch.
• Do not take your own deductions. The factory will take necessary deductions and allowances.
• Double-check all measurements.

Inside Mount

The window covering will hang inside the window frame.
Width: Measure the EXACT distance across the window from the inside edge of the frame to the opposite inside edge in three places. Use the narrowest dimension.

Height:

Measure the EXACT distance from the top inside edge of the frame to the bottom inside edge of the frame in three places. Use the longest dimension for horizontal coverings, and the shortest for vertical coverings.

Window Depth:

The amount of space from the back of the window or obstruction to the windows outer edge (see below).

Flush Mount

Blind is mounted back into the window opening so that the valance is even with the window opening.

• 1.50″ for 1″ and 1/2″ Mini Blinds, 3/8″ Honeycomb Shades, 3/8” Cellular Shades and Pleated Shades
• 2.25″ for 1″ Wood Blinds, 3/4″ Honeycomb Shades and 3/4” Cellular Shades.
• 3.00″ for 2″ Aluminum Blinds and 2″ Wood blinds
• 4.75″ for Vertical Blinds

Outside Mount

actual window frame, flush with outside edges of the window trim.

Width:

Measure the EXACT distance from the outside edge of the left side of the window frame to the outside edge of the right side of the window frame. This will be the finished width of your window covering.

Height:

Measure the EXACT distance from the top outside edge of the window frame the bottom outside edge of the frame. This will be the finished height of your window covering. Outside Mount – With Overlap
The window covering will hang outside the actual window frame, over lapping the window frame enough to cover for maximum privacy and light blockage. Recommended for ROLLER SHADES and VERTICAL BLINDS.

Width:

Measure the EXACT distance from the outside edge of the left side of the window frame to the outside edge of the right side of the window frame and add at least 2 inches for horizontal blinds and 4 – 6 inches for verticals. 
Height: Measure the EXACT distance from the top outside edge of the window frame the bottom outside edge of the frame and add at least 3 inches for horizontal blinds and 4 inches for verticals.

For more tips visit The Blind Store

You Tube Video: How to Measure & Install Window and Door Blinds

For more DIY ideas on Stagetecture, & Stagetecture’s YouTube Channel, click here.

Multiple lighting sources in the kitchen is always a plus.  Whether it means an overhead light, pendant lights over a seated bar, or under cabinet lights as task lighting, more functionality is key.

Today on DIY Saturday at Stagetecture I will show you how to install kitchen under cabinet lighting.  Lighting comes in a variety of options, but for this post we will install puck lighting (round and resembles a hockey puck).

Below are the under cabinet lighting materials and tools you will need from HGTV.

Materials and Tools:

black puck lights (Hampton Bay 120v) (10)
on-wall switch box
dimmer
wire-mold kit
switch box
crimp connector kit
1/2″ screws to fit lights
black puck lights (Hampton Bay 120v) (10)
on-wall switch box
dimmer
wire-mold kit
switch box
crimp connector kit
1/2″ screws to fit lights
3/8″ drill bit
cordless drill with battery and magnetic screw tip
drill
drywall jab saw
electrician’s pliers
crimp tool
staple gun
torpedo level
wire nuts
wire staples
measuring tape
pencil
safety glasses

Steps:

1. First, locate or determine your power source. In our case, we pulled our power from the attic, since it was accessible and close. We ran our hot wire from the attic, down in a piece of wire molding, to the top of the cabinets. A simpler option, if you don’t want to do electrical work yourself, is to pull power from an existing outlet, simply plugging the lights into the outlet.

2. Next, install the lights. For our purposes, we centered a light under each cabinet door. Keep the lights close to the front the wall cabinet, positioning the light over the center of the countertop. Install the lights by screwing the lights up into the bottom of the cabinet using 1/2″ screws.

3. Depending on the kit, it may be better to wire the lights under the cabinets and staple the wires up, or it may be better to do all the wiring on top of the cabinets, and drill down thru the cabinet to get the wire the light. It will depend on the type of cabinets installed. If they are face-frame cabinets, there is a recess in the bottom to hide the wires, so all wiring can be done there. If they are overlay cabinets, there is no recess on the bottom, so do all the wiring from the top.

4. After all the lights are wired together, hook the hot wire (the smooth side of the wire) to the switch. Tie the neutral wire (the ribbed wire) to the white wire from the house. The black wire from the house will go to the other side of the switch. To summarize: white to ribbed, black to switch and smooth to switch.

Video:

How to install under cabinet lighting from You Tube.

For more DIY ideas on Stagetecture, & Stagetecture’s YouTube Channel, click here.

A few weeks ago, the DIY Stagetecture Saturday was about how to install outdoor landscape lighting. Outdoor lighting can make the difference between your home looking inviting to guests at night, or being able to enjoy your home past sunset.  Today, I welcome Paul Gosselin from NightScenes Landscape Lighting Professionals he explains how outdoor lighting can enhance your home’s curb appeal and improve safety at the same time.

Homeowners today are spending more time outside the confining walls of their homes.  A great deal of time and money is being invested to create beautiful and relaxing outdoor living spaces, only to see them fade into the darkness, making the space unusable when the sun goes down.  Bringing these areas of the home back into the light and extending your hours of enjoyment in these spaces is one of the

primary functions of professional landscape lighting.  With properly designed and installed professional landscape lighting, the homeowner can enjoy the exterior of their abode at night all year long.  With the beginning of fall just around the corner, there couldn’t be a better time to consider adding some light enhancement for your outdoor entertaining!

The use of light fixtures to add a degree of safety to your property – as in walkways and steps —  can be attractively planned to avoid the “runway syndrome” which many do-it-yourselfers fall prey to when purchasing ineffective solar lights from the local home improvement store.  Professional designers can create art in illumination, utilizing an understanding of light and space, as well as the knowledge of wiring and low voltage electricity.  A proper design would use a taller fixture with a cover that blocks the actual source of the light (light bulb) preventing glare.  Well-designed light fixtures will cast the light down onto the walk area or steps, not into the eyes.  It is also prudent to remember that these fixtures should be placed in non-turf areas so that mowers and weed-eaters are not forced to navigate around them causing damage or noticeable “tilting” of the fixtures.  An alternate plan to safely light walkways and step areas could be the use of “moonlighting.”  This effect is achieved by placing fixtures as high as 25 feet or more into the canopy of a tall tree allowing the beams to filter through the branches casting lovely diffused light below.

In addition to lighting for safety, low voltage lighting can enhance your property and architecture, becoming a distinctive style element.  Decorative lighting can really add some punch to flowerbeds.  By placing “spread lighting” fixtures in planting beds, a lighting designer will bring out the floral color and add a bit of flair to any ordinary display.  With the extensive range of fixture choices, your personal style can be reflected – be it traditional, whimsical, rustic, contemporary – or even eclectic!

Down lighting, often called “moon lighting”, produces a soft, diffused effect by placing several fixtures high into the canopy of a tall tree to let the light gently filter through limbs and branches simulating the effect of moonlight, creating striking patterns on the grounds below.  Using a spotlighting technique will bring attention to a particular object or architectural aspect, like a statue or entryway.  By selecting the proper fixture, lamp (light bulb), and beam spread, the lighting designer can make these features stand out in the landscape.  By placing a light directly in front of and below an object, the designer can create dramatic shadowing on the vertical surface behind it.  Changes in beam spread and the color of the light will generate a wide variety of effects which can be intense and extraordinary.  An impressive affect can be achieved when the designer places the correct fixture close to a textured surface such as a brick or rock wall, or even a tree trunk, and shines the light across the surface.  This grazing effect highlights the high points of the object forming shadows in the low points.  To achieve a more three-dimensional look to an object, the landscape lighting designer may employ a cross lighting technique.  Here, two or more fixtures are used to illuminate a statue, or a large plant or tree.  Striking results can be attained by a creative and skillful designer using lighting to silhouette an object.  Probably the most dramatic affect can be achieved with up lighting.  Since all natural light comes from the top moving down, seeing the opposite light effect can be very powerful.  A talented designer knows how to use this effect sparingly so as not to be too busy.

When designing a landscape lighting system, the professional designer uses just the right combination of all these techniques to create a special look and atmosphere unique for each client.  By selecting the proper fixture, lamp, and beam spread along with the understanding of light and space, professional lighting designs can bring the exterior of your home to life at night, and make that outdoor living space an area that is beautiful, comforting, and a joy to be in anytime of the day  – or night.

Paul R. Gosselin, Sr., clvlt is a professional landscape lighting designer and president of NIGHTSCENES Landscape Lighting Professionals located in Kingsland, Texas.  He is a graduate of the “Kichler Kollege” for landscape lighting professionals and has attended additional training schools conducted by CAST, Unique Lighting, and Hadco Lighting.  He has also attended the acclaimed Janet Lennox Moyer Landscape Lighting Institute in Troy, NY.  Mr. Gosselin is certified by the Association of Outdoor Lighting Professionals, a non-profit organization dedicated to maintaining safety standards and quality training in the outdoor lighting field.  In February 2007, he was elected to the Board of Directors for the AOLP and is currently serving as the vice president of the association.  He is regarded as a national leader in the low voltage lighting profession, has contributed to numerous industry related publications and is consulted by professional designers throughout the country.

For more outdoor landscape lighting ideas on Stagetecture, click here.

Indoor light quality can make or break a room.  Remember our post this week about vanity light, and if there is enough good light at your bathroom sink?  Today on DIY Saturday I will show you how easy it is to transform your existing lighting into the capability of adding more ambiance to your rooms.

Dimmer switches are easy to install and they can make the lighting in your space go from romantic candlelight dinner ambiance to bright task lighting in one controllable switch. Here are some advantages to adding a dimmer switch, as well as the tools necessary to install yours from Do It Yourself.com.

Advantages of adding a dimmer switch:

• You have control over the amount of light in a room.
• You can leave bathroom or hallway lights dimmed for small children or overnight guests.
• The way dimmers tend to make a room look more romantic and cozy can actually increase your house’s re-sale value and give you an added edge over other houses on the market.
• Dimmer switches offer versatility and add richness to any room

Tools and materials you will need:

• Screwdriver
• Wire Strippers
• Needle nose Pliers
• Voltage Tester (Don’t worry, you don’t need an expensive one. Most hardware shops sell inexpensive ones for as little as a few bucks.)

• Electrical Tape
• Wire Nuts
• Dimmer Plate (Not all companies supply one with the switch, so check before you leave the store.)

You Tube Video: How to install a dimmer switch.

 

For more DIY ideas on Stagetecture, & Stagetecture’s YouTube Channel, click here.

Your home is appealing in the daytime with its gorgeous windows pouring in natural light, but what about in the evening? Can you see clearly how to get from the curb to your doorway? Is the landscaping accented with lighting to give beautiful aesthetics and security? Landscape lighting helps the curb appeal of your home at night, but it also protects your home and keeps visitors safe while walking to and from your home.

On DIY Saturday today, I will show you how to install your own outdoor landscape lighting.  Outdoor lighting is categorized by what function you need it for.

Outdoor Lighting Categories:

• High voltage: lighting used for commercial buildings. Should be installed by a professional electrical contractor
• Solar powered: used for aesthetics, powered by solar cells on individual lighting fixtures.
• Low voltage: Used for safety and security, hardwired in to your electrical system of your home.

Low voltage installation:

(Provided by This Old House.com)

Where to install:

Installed along walkways, steps, and driveways, or pointing up at trees, walls, and fences, the typical low-voltage lighting system requires just three components: a transformer, low-voltage electrical cable, and the fixtures. You don’t have to be comfortable with wiring—or even have ever done any—to install this type of system.

The transformer steps down the 120-volt house current to just 12 volts. It must be plugged into a GFCI-protected outdoor electrical outlet fitted with a “while-in-use” cover, and oversize plastic box that closes over the power cord. The transformer needs to have enough capacity to support the cumulative wattage of the lights in the system. Between fixtures, the cable is buried in a shallow trench. As long as you have a nearby outlet, you’ll be able to give your home and yard a welcoming glow when the sun goes down.

Step-by-Step Guide:

1. Lay out the components

Set the pathway light fixtures on the ground where they’ll be installed — usually about 8 to 10 feet apart.

Lay the low-voltage cable along the concrete walkway, following the line of light fixtures. Use 14-gauge cable for lighting systems that total 200 watts or less and 12-gauge cable for systems that are more than 200 watts.

When you come to an obstacle, such as a fence or shrub, string the cable under or around it.

Tip: Put first fixture at least 10 feet from the transformer.

2. Turn over the sod

Move the light fixtures out of the way.

Take a flat-blade shovel and slide it underneath the top layer of grass, about 12 inches in from the edge of the walk. Then lift up on the handle to separate the grass from the soil, and fold over this scalped portion of sod. Continue in this manner all along the walkway.

Use the corner of the shovel’s blade to scratch a 3-inch-deep trench in the soil where the wire will go.

Tip: If necessary, set the light fixtures on top of the folded sod to prevent it from flopping back down.

3. Bury the electrical cable

Set the low-voltage electrical cable in the trench. Leave a bit of slacked cable at each fixture point for making the connection to the light fixtures.

Smooth the soil over the trench, but leave the cable sticking up out of the soil near each fixture.

Make a slit in the detached sod where the fixture will sit and fold the sod back over the soil, keeping the cable for each fixture above the grass.

Tip: Don’t bury the cable more than 3 inches or you’ll have difficulty connecting the light fixture.

4. Plug in the transformer

Run the cable up to the outdoor electrical outlet. Then use
wire strippers to cut the cable and strip off ½ inch of the rubber insulation.

Slide the stripped wires under the two terminal screws on the bottom of the transformer. Tighten the screws all the way to hold the cable securely in place.

Drive a wood stake into the ground next to the outlet. Then screw the transformer to the stake. (It can also be mounted directly to the wall of the house.)

Lift up the “while-in-use” cover on the outlet and plug in the trans

5. Prepare holes for the fixtures

Set all the light fixtures back into position, checking to make sure they’re equally spaced.

Position the first fixture as close to the edge of the walkway as possible without any part of it hanging over. (If the fixture extends into the walkway, people will constantly be bumping into it.)

Make a hole in the ground for the fixture’s stake with a large screwdriver or long steel punch. Never use a hammer to drive the fixture into the ground.

Tip: Don’t place a light within 10 feet of a pool, spa, or fountain.

For the rest of the steps to installing your outdoor landscape lighting visit: This Old House.com

You Tube Video: Installing Outdoor Landscape Lighting

For more DIY ideas on Stagetecture, & Stagetecture’s YouTube Channel, click here.

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You Tube Video: Installing a Glass Tile Back splash

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Are you tired of going in your closets and not finding what you went in for? Closet organization is a necessity for sanity and

efficiency.   Depending on the quantity, and different categories of clothes, you will want to pick the material that matches your use.

Steps:

1.) Declutter and purge!

Before you can organize a space, you need to clear out what you don’t wear, doesn’t fit, or needs to find a new home!  Donate items to charities, churches, or others who may benefit from your ‘treasure’!

2.) Take inventory of what is left.

You should now be able to look at your belongings and figure out what needs to go where.

3.) Planning your closet.

Do It Yourself.com has some simple tips on how to plan out your closet organization unit(s).

Begin by making a list of the kind of things you want to keep in the closet. Do you have a lot of shoes? Do you hang your clothes or do you need shelf space for folded clothes like sweaters? Maybe your closet space isn’t for clothes at all, but instead a space where you want to keep old records or files. Whatever it is, you will need to plan accordingly.

The best way to begin a plan is to measure the space that you have. Measure each wall and get a blank piece of paper for each one. Make some rough sketches to help you decide how the space should be laid out, and use those sketches in conjunction with your measurements to figure out how close the shelves should be and how many you can potentially fit on each wall.

Maybe you have already decided what kind of material you want to use for your shelving system, but if you haven’t, you need to do so while you are designing your space. There are two basic ways to build an organizational structure in a closet. The first is to use a system of prefabricated hangers and brackets that hold lightweight wire shelving coated with rubber. There are several manufacturers of wire rack shelving, but they are all similar in design and functionality. This wire shelving is available in a variety of sizes and depths and can be arranged to incorporate rods for hanging clothes. There are also a number of accessories available that are designed for hard items like shoes, which can be difficult to keep organized.

The second method is to build shelving units. The actual material that you choose is entirely up to you, and we will discuss a few of them, but the basic construction premise is the same for both. The most significant differences in the materials are found in aesthetic appearance and price. Other than that, you can count on using the same hardware for whatever you choose.

Once you have taken the time to design a closet shelving system that will meet your needs and you have determined which materials you want to use, you can move to the next step and put together your shopping list.

You will need several supplies, and they will vary based on the type of shelving units you are installing.  Do It Yourself.com

recommends:

5.) Ask questions!

Your local home improvement store can help you, as well as online resources.

Questions may include:

• What is the estimated time to complete?
• How many people are suggested to install?
• If you are missing pieces, do you call the manufacturer or bring it back to the local store?
• What types of materials and shelving types last longer.
• Is there a toll free phone number or online support, should you have questions once you begin installation.
• If you have extra materials, can you get a full refund?
• What is the recommended weight limit for shelving. (Make sure you are using shelving that will hold what you are trying to store!)

For more helpful advice, look at this Lowe’s You Tube video on installing your own closet organizer:

For more DIY ideas on Stagetecture, & Stagetecture’s YouTube Channel, click here.

We’re into week 3 already in our D.I.Y. Saturday’s! Week #1 – Before and After Room resources, Week #2 – Home Improvement store resources, and today – Laminate Wood Flooring.

Ready to install wood flooring in your home? Whether you decide to install it yourself, or to use a professional here are some tips to find out if laminate wood flooring is for you.

Wood or Laminate flooring?

– Here’s a video that shares the pros and cons of laminate flooring: