With tightened budgets a lot of us are being forced to learn to do some home repairs on our own.  Do-it-yourself or DIY projects can actually be fun if we have the right tools and knowledge! But you can’t get the job done right unless you have certain tools on hand, so here is a list of some basic items that every DIY person should add to their supply closet or garage.

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Ladder:

It doesn’t need to be big, but you will need at least a step-ladder on hand as most projects call for one at some point in time.  Shop around for a sturdy, preferably locking, step ladder that has at least 3 to 4 steps. If you would like to have a longer ladder on hand but have little storage, then look for a ladder that collapses down into a smaller one for storage purposes. There are a lot of ladders on the market, so shop around for the one that meets your needs. See Globe Ladders Ltd for a selection that will fit your job and budget.

Screwdriver:

A screwdriver is a must have for everyone. The good news is that you really only need to buy one. Buying a multi-head screwdriver (the kind that contains multiple heads inside the cavity of the handle) will meet all your needs in one easy tool!

Ratchet set:

There are some pretty fancy ratchet sets on the market, but you will just need a basic set; one that comes with 19 to 40 pieces – anything over that will get too expensive.

Hammer:

You must have one good solid hammer for all those pictures that you will want to put up or popped nails that you will want to fix.

Picture hanging kit:

Most hardware stores have a complete kit for hanging pictures. Look for a kit that has plenty of different hooks that can carry between 10 to 40 pounds of weight, and get one that has extra wire for hanging.

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Level:

If you are going to be hanging pictures, putting up shelves, or installing pretty well anything on your walls, you will need a level in order to get the job done right the first time (and avoid all those extra holes in your wall). There are quite a few levels on the market; you can buy a rather large, long one, or really small ones that are the length of your pinky finger, or there are even laser light levels that send a level beam of light across the wall. Have fun – the choice is yours!

Whatever your project for this weekend, stock up on the right tools first to avoid endless trips to the hardware store midway through the project.

For more DIY ideas on Stagetecture, & Stagetecture’s YouTube Channel, click here.

Crown molding is one of those features of a home that can take a room from “so-so” to gorgeous! When selling your home, crown

molding is a feature that appeals to most home buyers and home owner’s love boasting about the amenity.

There are some misconceptions about installing crown molding, some people say it’s easy – ‘Anyone can do it!’.  While others will say it’s the hardest thing ever – ‘Don’t try it!’

I’m here to tell you – they are both wrong! I say this to mean – it depends on your patience, skill background, ability to follow directions, and confidence in using power saws.  This is a job that can be time consuming, so allow ample cushion time to finish the job.  For those of you that prefer to hire a professional, it’s understandable, but for those of you that like the satisfaction of crafting a job on your own – here you go.

E-How has a step by step guide on installing crown molding. See here the tools needed, preparation, and simplified execution.  For a full description, visit E-How.

Tools you will need:

Utility Knives
Coping Saws
Measuring Tapes
Wood Putty
Finish Nails
Miter Saws
Hammers

Preparation:

1.) Take measurements to get the linear footage needed to span the distance to be trimmed out. Add 10 percent to this figure for waste and mistakes.

2.) Select the style and finish you want for your new crown molding. There are many shapes and sizes available.

3.) Pick a style that suits your decor and personal taste. The finish that you put on should be purchased and applied before you start any cutting and fitting.

4.) Try to buy your trim in lengths that will need as few splices as possible. In some cases splices are unavoidable but the fewer there are the better the finished job will look. (Very long walls may have to be spliced ― 14 to 16 feet is about the longest you will find in most trim pieces and these longer pieces are more susceptible to warping and damage.)

5.) Stain or paint all the molding then allow it to dry thoroughly.

For rest of steps visit here.

Trimming & Joining:

1.) Overcome not-quite-square corners ― and most of them are not square ― with a “coped” joint:

2.) Run the first piece of crown molding tightly into the corner. Cope-cut the second piece that will form the other leg of the corner angle in the shape of the profile of the molding so that it can butt neatly against the face of the first piece. Here’s how:

3.) Use a deep miter box and a fine-toothed saw to make a cut that reveals the profile of the molding. Position the molding so that it is upside down in the miter box. The face of the molding that goes against the ceiling will be on the bottom of the miter box. Remember, for inside corners, the bottom of the crown molding will be the longest edge.

4.) Cutting the proper miter will reveal the profile of the molding. Cut away the excess wood along the backside of the molding following that profile line with a coping saw. Err on the side of removing too much rather than too little; only the outermost edge of the coped molding will be seen.

5.) Use a utility knife to remove any excess material you missed with the coping saw. Be careful that you do not cut into the exposed face of the molding. Hold the piece in place to test the fit. Take it down and do more carving if necessary. This will sometimes take several fittings and trimmings to get the cleanest-fitting joint.

For rest of steps visit here.

Attach & Finishing

1.) Determine the location of the joists. Drill pilot holes to keep the molding from splitting.

2.) Attach the molding with only a few nails. (Use 6d or 8d finish nails for this, depending on the thickness of the molding). Take a good look at the positioning before completing the nailing.

3.) Provide a solid nailing area where the joists run parallel to the crown molding by using a 2 x 2 cut on a 45-degree bevel. Cut the 2-by-2 to length then screw it to the wall so that it’s in the corner where the ceiling and wall meet. The 2-by-2 provides a solid surface sitting at an angle, to which you can nail the molding.

4.) Countersink all nails using a nail set.

5.) Use wood putty to fill all visible nail holes help cover any small gaps at the joints to give things a more seamless appearance. Wait for the putty to dry and sand it smooth with fine sand paper.

6.) Finish the nail holes and small fill-ins to match the rest of the molding, and enjoy your new look

Video How-To:

This You Tube video will show you step-by-step on how to install crown molding.

 

For more DIY ideas on Stagetecture, & Stagetecture’s YouTube Channel, click here.