1.) Tools recommended:

• 3/16” Square Notch Trowel
• Gum Rubber Float or Green Epoxy Float
• Glass Mosaic Tile Nippers
• Level
• Metal Straight Edge
• Chalk Line
• Masking Tape
• Spacers
• Oversized Hydraphiliated polyester sponge
• Clean bucket

For larger projects, you will need these additional tools:

• Grinder
• Wet Saw
• Water jet
• Continuous Rim Diamond Blade(s)
• Diamond hole saw using a wet drill process

2.)Materials needed for installing a glass tile backsplash:

We recommend using conventional installation methods of mortar or mud as preferred by industry professionals for centuries.

You may choose to use white thinset or thinbed in dry area applications. Please make sure that you use only a quality liquid latex fortified Portland cement thinset.

There are many manufacturers of white polymer modified thinsets like MAPEI, TEC, ALL SET, etc.  Please see your flooring associate or distributor for more information.

3.) Surface Preparation for installing glass tile:

You want to make sure that the surface to be tiled is dry, clean, treated for moisture and dimensionally stable.

We recommend that you install tile only on a level cement or cementitious backer unit (CBU). All joints on CBU must be caulked and an alkaline resistant fiberglass mesh tape to avoid cracking.

A water proof or crack suppressant membrane is also recommended to prevent shrinkage or movement of the substrate.  In all circumstances install only over well-cured, stable substrates.  If a crack suppression membrane is not used neither the manufacturer nor the dealer will accept any responsibility should any cracking occur.  Allow for expansion joints whenever substrates change.

• Wet Areas:

If you are installing the tile in a wet location like a shower you must use a waterproof membrane.

Allow a minimum of 28 days curing time after grouting before applying water in submerged areas like swimming pools or fountains.

Follow setting material manufacturer’s installation directions as some setting materials are not suitable for wet or submerged applications.

Do not use paper faced gypsum of any kind as a substrate in wet locations.

• Expansion Joints:
  

Please make sure that you install expansion joints made of silicone or prefabricated with metal trims a minimum of every 20 feet for indoor and every 8 feet for exterior application.

We recommend a siliconized caulk joint at all wall and floor joints. Most manufacturers of grout sell caulk that matched the color and shade of the grout.

4.) Cutting Glass Tile:

Using the wheeled glass tile nipper to cut glass tile:

Wheeled glass tile nippers work a bit differently than offset nippers. The wheels will cut the tile parallel to the nipper rather than break the tile on a line perpendicular to the nipper handles. You will need to place the center of the wheel on the center of the line that you wish to cut. Try placing the wheeled blades in the center of your tile and give the nippers a VERY gentle, constant squeeze at the end of the handles. Your tile should cut evenly down the middle. Remember that the glass tile does not break with the force but with the heat that is generated by the carbide wheel.

Using a wet saw to cut glass tile

It is important to follow all the safety instructions that you received with your wet saw. Please do not remove blade guards or forget to use eye protection. Remember that you are now working with water and electricity so make sure that your power source is higher than your saw so you do not allow water to run down the power cord and into your socket or electrical connection.

The blade on the wet saw should be a continuous rim blade or a blade recommended by the manufacturer for cutting glass tile.

Cutting glass tile on a wet saw is not very different than cutting a porcelain tile. They are both very vitreous and require the same careful handling. Excessive vibration from the wet saw may cause the glass to chip so please allow for a small degree of chipping which can be hidden with a face plate or molding.

5.) Setting the Glass Tile:

It is imperative that you first skim coat the substrate with thinset using the flat side of the trowel.

Use the notched edge to spread the thinset. Follow by flattening the peaks of the thinset with the smooth side. This will reduce the chance of having gaps or voids behind the tile.

It is important to back butter the back of the tile to get maximum coverage.

Please make sure to not overbuild the thinset under the glass – this will make the finished surface uneven and increase the possibility that the thinset will shrink as it dries.

Carefully press the glass against the wall to prevent the notch marks in the adhesive from showing through the glass.

• see ASTM/ANSI Guidelines (ANSI A108 American National Standards for the Installation of Ceramic Tile
• See also “Installation of Paper Faced, Back Mounted, Edge Mounted, or Clear Film-Face Mounted Glass Mosaic Tile A108.16-2005

For more DIY ideas on Stagetecture, & Stagetecture’s YouTube Channel, click here.